Spring Everest season begins as Sherpas open summit route

KATHMANDU: The 2025 spring climbing season on Mount Everest officially commenced after a team of seven Sherpas fixed ropes to the summit at 5 p.m. on Friday, clearing the way for climbers to begin their ascents. The rope-fixing team, deployed by ATK Expedition Company, included Ashok Lama, Tshering Pemba Sherpa, Pem Norbu Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa, and Pastenji Sherpa.

Expedition leader Lakpa Sherpa reported from base camp that the team faced severe challenges due to thick snow. “Rope-fixing was extremely difficult this year. In the Khumbu Icefall, even using ladders became risky because of loose rocks and black stones,” he said.

According to Leeladhar Awasthi, Director at the Department of Tourism, the successful rope-fixing officially signals the start of this year’s Everest expedition. He noted that climbers will now begin heading toward the summit depending on favorable weather, with the first summit window expected to be both safe and productive.

A day earlier, ATK Expedition teams had also fixed ropes to the summits of Lhotse and Ama Dablam. However, only seven of the 16 Sherpas deployed for Everest’s rope-fixing managed to reach the top due to heavy snow and tough conditions, which some Sherpas linked to the impacts of climate change.

The expedition company said it took 14 days to establish the route from Camp II to Camp IV due to persistent bad weather, though the final ascent from Camp IV to the summit was completed in two days.

“With the route ready and weather clearing up, hundreds of climbers are now poised for the summit,” said Lakpa Sherpa, who also manages ATK Expedition. The ideal summit window is predicted between May 11 and 15, before snowfall expected on May 16 and 17. A second window may open from May 19 to 24.

Sherpa workers are already stationed at Camps III and IV to handle oxygen and gear logistics, while climbers continue moving up from base camp to acclimatize and finalize preparations.

Several record attempts are underway this season. Veteran climber Kami Rita Sherpa aims to break his own record with a 31st Everest ascent. Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa is attempting to summit four times within 20 days. Meanwhile, Sanu Sherpa plans to climb all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters for a third time, setting a new global record. India’s oldest Everest aspirant is also preparing for a historic climb.

ATK Expedition has 55 climbers currently on Everest and Lhotse. With the route open and weather holding steady, the spring season is set to be busy—and potentially record-breaking.